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MarkS
Reply with quote  #9 
noload,

If the gun shoots, there is not a problem with the gun. You need a 20 moa tapered base or Burris Sig. rings, with the inserts that will give the 20 moa also.

Any thing new I buy Weaver type bases and Burris Sig. Zee. the inserts save your scope for any marks at all.

Mark Schronce
witnessing
Reply with quote  #10 
Try applying up pressure at the fore-tip, then fire the rifle enough to get the barrel pretty warm. Remove up pressure and see where your p.o.i is. I use old credit card strips.
noload
Reply with quote  #11 
All you guys have good ideas,the barrel does show a +.004" spun in vee blocks, (at 2 0'clock when barrel is remounted). I did correct half the problem (Shot at 100yds to prove it out) by taking two wraps of teflon tape on the leading first 5 threads. This kept the barrel from cocking so much at reassembly. According to my calculations, The face of the action is off about .006 causing all the headaches combined with barrel runout. I do plan on facing the action so it is as true to the barrel as possible. Savage tech says chamber is machined concentric with the OD of the action (I will check).I find it hard to believe Savage does not true the end of the receiver where the jam nut meets...such a simple procedure, that and cut the barrel and receiver threads for a better fit. Then they would have a gun I could'nt complain about at all. Ballistics say I can shoot at 1000yds with a 20MOA base like it is now, with a couple of clicks to spare. I plan on finding out shortly.
Robert
Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by noload
All you guys have good ideas,the barrel does show a +.004" spun in vee blocks, (at 2 0'clock when barrel is remounted). I did correct half the problem (Shot at 100yds to prove it out) by taking two wraps of teflon tape on the leading first 5 threads. This kept the barrel from cocking so much at reassembly. According to my calculations, The face of the action is off about .006 causing all the headaches combined with barrel runout. I do plan on facing the action so it is as true to the barrel as possible. Savage tech says chamber is machined concentric with the OD of the action (I will check).I find it hard to believe Savage does not true the end of the receiver where the jam nut meets...such a simple procedure, that and cut the barrel and receiver threads for a better fit. Then they would have a gun I could'nt complain about at all. Ballistics say I can shoot at 1000yds with a 20MOA base like it is now, with a couple of clicks to spare. I plan on finding out shortly.


in the case of a Savage, I woud also consider the rear face of the nut in squareness with the threads.

Also, 'trueing" the receiver face with no consideration to have it perfectly sguare with the reciver threads will not change very much to the problem.
R.G.C
milanuk
Reply with quote  #13 
Probably was machined perfectly on their new high $$$ cnc machining center... before it got heat treated and polished.

noload
Reply with quote  #14 
The end of the receiver did not have typical machine marks on the end. It surely was not done on a lathe, possibly roughed with a mill. Standing the receiver on it's end on a surface plate you could see it was out a little with a square. I have my doubts if it was ever that square, don't think the heat treat would have move it that much. If the heat treat did do that then it should be wiped to clean with a surface grinder. Oh well thats probably too much work for a $1300+ gun. I do wonder if a after market barrel will wobble as much, only relying on the jam nut to keep it straight. I did shoot at 600yds today and my quick teflon fix put me on the X with 4 vert. clicks to spare using a flat scope rail. Before I was aiming 35" hi to hit the X with all the vert. used up. The fix got me 50 clicks I didn't have before. Now I'm sure this will work with a 20MOA rail to 1000Yds. I will probably work a little more on the receiver end in the future ( make a TRUE cut) when I have a little time.
milanuk
Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
I do wonder if an after market barrel will wobble as much, only relying on the jam nut to keep it straight.


In my experience, that usually fixes the problem to a large degree. I have had ones that the factory barrel was pointing somewhere off in the tulies, and when I put an aftermarket barrel on it was pointing almost straight. I also have one factory receiver that has had multiple factory barrels across it (my 12 F/TR) and every one points a different direction - up, left, & center - still waiting on 'right' and 'down'.

Once I get the scope lined up & centered with Burris Signature rings (shouldn't need them, but they do the job), it doesn't seem to affect the performance all that much...
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