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Innovative
Reply with quote  #9 
Pyrolater .........

I've seen bulged cases caused by shooters that don't measure their headspace (at the shoulder). If you adjust your resizing die (according to the instructions) it's possible to push the shoulder back too far. The shoulder does need to be pushed back, but no more than -.002" at the most.

When it gets pushed back more than that, the case stretches to fill the chamber when it's fired. This thins the brass just above the web of the case. Your case then bulges when ANY downward pressure is applied during reloading. I suggest measuring your headspace, and setting the height of your resizing die accurately.

- Innovative

pyrolater
Reply with quote  #10 
This brass is new federal and Winchester brass. Its only been fired one time and then prepped. I noticed the bulge before I had a chance to reload the brass and fire it a second time.

The only way I can check the chamber size is to go off of the fired brass. I try to just bump the shoulder bank a few thousandths. I'm using a Stony point head and shoulder gauge




Innovative
Reply with quote  #11 
Pyrolater .........

I assume you're using a good FL die, and it sounds like you're watching your headspace. I have seen chambers with huge body diameter, and they will leave your brass looking bulged no matter what you do. I've also seen brass with undersize case heads (this is very rare), but it has the same effect. Compare the case diameter of different brands of brass (at the web), and see if they all measure the same.

- Innovative
pyrolater
Reply with quote  #12 
My chamber could be huge but I won't be able to check that until tomorrow.

I'm using a Hornady resizing die so I don't think thats a problem. I'm going to some comparative measuring between new factory ammo, once shot brass and SAMMI specs.

I'm also going to fire off a couple of rounds in the morning. I got a few ideas for Germans1 so I'm going to mark my shells on the base and try and orientate the marks to 1200 and see if the bulge appears in the same or different spots.

Not sure what that will tell me just yet but I'm sure it will mean something.
Innovative
Reply with quote  #13 
pyrolater .....

Check out this new tool for measuring different locations on a tapered case. Visit http://www.larrywillis.com

- Innovative

BoydAllen
Reply with quote  #14 
Your cases are not the same thickness all the way around. The thinner part yields under pressure more than the thicker, giving the asymmetrical bulge. One of the reason that some target shooters use some brands of foreign brass ( Lapua, RWS, Norma) is that they have superior uniformity in thickness around the case. To sort new brass NECO sells a concentricity gauge that can be set up to measure case thickness near the back of the case. For once fired brass, you can visually sort by picking cases that have the most symmetrical expansion at the back. Before you do anything too radical or expensive, you should do a blind test with your best and worst cases, to see if there is a problem that you can see on the target. If there is not, don't worry about it. Things that matter for highly accurate Benchrest rifles may get lost in the noise on a factory or military rifle.
Innovative
Reply with quote  #15 
I agree with Boyd. Too many shooters worry about things that only apply to the needs of benchrest shooters, with no benefit at all to hunting rifles. If your rounds don't chamber properly that's a different matter.

RCBS also makes a handy case measuring tool - the Case Master. It serves several different measuring jobs, including measuring brass thickness all the way back to the web. That's a very useful tool for any handloader.

- Innovative
pyrolater
Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
I agree with Boyd. Too many shooters worry about things that only apply to the needs of benchrest shooters, with no benefit at all to hunting rifles. If your rounds don't chamber properly that's a different matter.


I agree with Boyd too and with what Germans1 said but now I want to know more about whats going on inside the chamber. I can get pretty anal about this stuff. In this rifle none of this may really matter in the long run but like most of you guys I'd like to get some smaller groups. It seems most of you guys know more than me so thats why I find this "problem" so interesting.

I figure all this info will carry over to my next rifle which will most likely be some sort of tactical/F class/Highpower/bechrest type of rifle. Uh Oh, I may need more than one more new gun.

Being able to just look a the brass and see a bulge should make the "trouble shooting" or figuring out whats causing what easier to do now that I have an idea of what to look for.

When I do get something that shoots little bitty groups I think I'll be a head of the game when I reload for an accurate gun.
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