Reply with quote #1
I got a new Stevens 200 in 308. Just 5-10 shots througt it. And My new 300Whisper from Sin_Arms arrived this weekend. So I need to take the .308 barrel off.
I'm reading that I need to heat up the barrel nut. Does it required? How difficult is to remove the barrel?
Reply with quote #2
The nuts are not usually hard to remove with the correct wrench... No heat is usually needed... As a rule that is..... Always exceptions to the rule though...
Reply with quote #3
I’m about to put money in a vise.
But what to get: barrel or action vise? What are pros and cons?
Also what is a correct the correct torque for barrel nut on Stevens while installing a new barrel?
Reply with quote #4
You'll need a barrel nut wrench and either an action wrench, barrel vice, or barrel blocks.
I have never used the barrel vice, but I have used the barrel blocks(same basic thing except you use a normal bench vice to clamp the blocks). Personally, I find the action wrench to be better cause you dont have to worry about the barrel spinning in the blocks. To me it was also easier to set the headspacing.
If you get the action wrench make sure it has the notch cutout for the recoil lug. This eliminates any chance of the wrench slipping. I believe the Wheeler wrench from Midway is the one I have. ALso remember to put a couple layers of painters tape around the action in the area where you clampo the action, that way it dont scratch the finish.
I had a Stevens 308 that I couldnt get the barrel off by using the barrel blocks. No matter how tight I tightened the blocks( i was using a cheater bar for leverage) the barrel would still slip. I didnt have the action wrench yet, but I believe I wouldve had no problem pulling the barrel with it.
As far as torque, I'm sure there is an exact spec for it. It dont have to be nearly as tight as the factory puts it. I tighten it up snug and set headspace, then give the nut wrench one good smack with a dead-blow hammer, then recheck my headspace. I havent had one come loose yet.
Reply with quote #5
Ok, barrel whrench sounds good. But what you do in situation when berrel is locked in the action even after the nut removed?
May be this never happends, but wanted to know anyway just in case.
Reply with quote #6
put some Kroil or PB Blaster around the barrel nut and let it soak into the threads for a couple days. Sometimes the bluing salts get into the threads and make it harder to loosen.
Reply with quote #7
I use a Davidson barrel vice, a rear entry action wrench that fits Remington and Savage along with the Savage barrel nut wrench. The barrel doesn't slip with this combo. The factory puts the barrel nut on to a torque of 75 ft/lbs. (source of info.: Machine Design magazine published 8/24/2006 'Keeping Firearms on Target' article).
I tried the wooden blocks, regular vice, etc. The rig I have set up works with my Remmy switch barrel rigs and my Savage switch barrel rig. Make certain you coat your threads with a good thread lube or Never Seize.
Reply with quote #8
It is not difficult with proper tools. I use a bench vise, wood barrel blocks, a nut wrench, and a hammer to tap the end of the wrench. Good advice about using the Kroil a day before. Once the nut is loose the barrel turns easily in the action. If you post your location you might find someone to help with your first swap.